We restored the gas tank using the Eastwood tank sealer kit a couple weekends back. The system was really easy to use and looks like it will be a good solution. My gas tank was in pretty bad shape and it looked like it had been sealed once before in the past. The layer of rust inside of the tank was thick and there was qute a bit of loose stuff. One the positive side, I filled the tank with water and found that it did not leak. I was skeptical that this seal kit would work with the old stuff still stuck to the walls inside the tank.
The overall process takes about 3 hours to complete and I recommend having someone help you. There are numerous steps of mixing, sloshing stuff around, and waiting. Overall, it is a simple process. The Metal Wash dissolves the dirt and fuel varnish, while OxiSolv etches the surface for good adhesion of the Sealer. You will also need 1/2 gallon each of Muratic Acid and Acetone that you can get at the local hardware store for less than $10. The final step is the Sealer which forms a tough, elastic barrier which resists all types of fuel additives and protects against rust. I used two bottles of the sealer and could probably have used a third for a better finish. Be sure that you wear good chemical gloves and long sleeves. Also have on hand plenty of baking soda to neutraize the chemicals after the flush. It will kill the grass and leave a nice orange spot.
After two weeks of curing I flushed the gas tank with water for about four hours today. I filled the tank once with water and flushed though the fuel cock and a filter with a bilge pump sending water back into the tank. I did not have the fuel screen in the tank as I wanted any loose stuff to flush out of the tank. Every 15 minutes or so I would lightly knock on the outside of the tank with a rubber mallet to make sure that there was nothing loose on the tank walls.No big surprise, I found that the fuel cock that I rebuilt leaked considerably from the valve area. Rather than build it again, I'll just replace it with a new one. This had been recommended to me before but I didn't listen.
2 comments:
Since I made this post, I have since learned that you must keep clear the vent holes in the top of the tank. If you don't and the holes get plugged from the new sealer, the tank will collapse as the fuel pump sucks down the gas. Yes, the fuel pump is strong enough to do this. I have since seen photos. I was able to reach in through the filling hole with a dental pick and dental mirror to clear the vent. It would have been easier when the sealant was still soft and not fully cured.
Theresa adds an edit that the application of the sealant took more like 5 hours compared to the 3 hours that I recall. Maybe the fumes were getting to me.
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